dog training tips: 2016

Get Started in Dog Training: Tips & Techniques for Beginners

Get Started in Dog Training: Tips & Techniques  


Why train your dog?
This is the really fun and most rewarding part of owning a dog! Training your new friend needs to be high on your list of priorities as soon as you have decided to own a new dog.
No dog is too old to learn and training classes are available for every age and ability, pedigrees, crossbreeds and rescue dogs are all welcomed. You will also meet like-minded people and share in a common aim to have well behaved dogs that are a pleasure to own. Puppies can usually begin as soon as they have had their course of vaccinations.
Training is an obligation all dog owners need to fulfil for the community they live in and the welfare of the dog. By going to classes you can meet the ethical and moral responsibilities of dog ownership and promote the benefits that dogs can bring to peoples' lives.

Finding a dog training club

There are many different types of classes available and activities that you can do with your dog but the first step should be finding a Kennel Club approved organisation. These will vary in types of classes and methods of training but all have to abide by the Kennel Club's codes of conduct.
Training clubs that run the Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme - the largest dog training programme in the UK are a sensible place to begin. Here you will learn about every aspect of dog ownership from the Puppy Foundation Courses through to Bronze, Silver and Gold award levels. Go to theonlinedogtrainer.com.
A training class is not there to train your dog. Its purpose is to teach you to train your dog so you will need to be committed to train your dog for short sessions (5 minutes) several times a day rather than just simply turn up for classes! This little bit of training everyday will be repaid with a lifetime of living with a well behaved dog. You will also learn to avoid problems before they begin as well as receive help to overcome any that you already have with your dog.
Before enrolling with a particular club contact them and ask if you can go to watch a class without your dog. This will help you decide if this is the right environment for you and your dog. Some clubs have waiting lists and you will need to book ahead, some accept people on a roll on roll off basis. Prices will vary from a joining fee and then weekly payments to a one off fee for a certain length of training.

What should I look for at a dog training club?

  • Are you made welcome and are the trainers friendly and approachable?
  • Do the people and their dogs look as if they are enjoying the class?
  • Are the dogs focused on the task with their owner?
  • Are the instructors giving lots of encouragement and information? Are they helping the owners to correct problems that occur?
  • Are the instructors maintaining a safe, controlled environment?
  • Is everyone in the class receiving equal help as well as meeting the needs of the whole class?
  • Remember that a free for all group of puppies playing happily off the lead may seem attractive but can very quickly become out of hand and even frighten your puppy. The same applies to older dogs that certainly benefit from socialising and playing as a reward but only if they respond immediately to the owners command.
  • Before you make your decision ask the owners if they enjoy the classes.

Some training tips:

  • Never be afraid to ask the instructor questions and never feel compelled to do anything that you don't understand or feel happy with.
  • Always be consistent to avoid confusing your dog.
  • Start as you mean to go on. Set your own boundaries for your own dog and stick to them, make sure everyone in the household agrees to do this.
  • Your dog needs to know its name so that it responds to you. After this you will be able to gain its attention and teach new commands and body signals.
  • Keep in mind that dogs do not speak English so the different tones of your voice and body movements are better understood so the actual command words are of less importance.
  • Be patient. If you find yourself getting frustrated and annoyed with your dog, stop and walk away. Do something different for a while. Later begin again with a clear frame of mind.
  • Train for short spells on a regular daily basis. This way the dog remains interested and you will progress faster.
  • Understand your dog and learn to anticipate its next move.
  • Handle and stroke and groom your dog every day with constant praise so it gets very used to being handled.
  • Play adds an extra dimension to a dog's life and can make training fun when used as a reward.
  • Persevere ,don't compare your dog to anyone else's, all dogs are individuals and keep in mind your goal that a well-trained dog is a happy dog and a pleasure to live with.
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Toilet training for puppies: basic tips & techniques

Toilet training your puppy should be quite a simple process, as long as you take the time and trouble to get into a good routine.
Initially, you will have to build your routine around your puppy's needs, and these are reliably predictable when they are very young. Puppies need to urinate immediately after waking up, so you need to be there to take your puppy straight into the garden without any delay.

Eating its meal stimulates its digestive system, and puppies normally urinate within fifteen minutes of eating, and defecate within half an hour of eating (although this might vary slightly with each individual).

Puppies have very poor bladder control, and need to urinate at least every hour or two. They can urinate spontaneously when they get excited, so take your puppy out frequently if it has been active, playing or exploring.

You may find it useful to keep a record of when your puppy eats sleeps, urinates and defecates. A simple diary list will do. Repeat cue words like 'wee wees' and 'poo poos' or 'be busy' and 'be clean' while the puppy is actually urinating or defecating. Use different words for each action so that you will be able to prompt the puppy later on.

Always go with your puppy into the garden so you are there to reward and attach the cue words to the successful actions! Fortunately, puppies are creatures of habit, so as long as you introduce the garden to your puppy as its toilet area early on, you should be able to avoid most of the common pitfalls.

How to toilet train your puppy: common errors

Unfortunately there are many reasons why 'toilet training' might not go as smoothly as it could, so make sure you do not make any of the following mistakes:
  • Over-feeding.
  • Feeding an unsuitable diet or giving a variety of foods.
  • Not feeding at regular times.
  • Feeding at the wrong times (which could cause overnight defecation).
  • Punishing the puppy for its indoor accidents (which can make it scared of toileting in front of you - even outside).
  • Feeding salty foods (e.g. stock from cubes) which makes them drink more.
  • Using ammonia based cleaning compounds (which smell similar to urine).
  • Expecting the puppy to tell you when it needs to go out; this is unrealistic, so it is better to take them out at regular intervals.
  • Leaving the back door open for the puppy to come and go as it pleases (a puppy will think that the garden is an adventure playground, rather than a toilet area. Also, what is a puppy meant to do when the weather gets cold, and it is faced with a closed back door?).
  • Leaving the puppy on its own too long, so that it is forced to go indoors (which sets a bad precedent, or even a habit of going indoors).
  • Mistakenly associating the words 'good girl' or 'good boy' when they toilet, as opposed to the specific cue words. Guess what could happen the next time you praise your dog?
  • Access to rugs or carpet (which are nice and absorbent - just like grass).
  • Laziness on your part, resulting in more wees indoors than outdoors.
  • Leaving the puppy alone in the garden, so you are not there to reward it for going outdoors… how is it meant to learn that it is more popular and advantageous going outdoors, if you are not there to show your approval?
  • Submissive or excited urination on greeting (if this occurs, take your puppy outside before you greet it and tone down your greeting so it is less exciting or overwhelming).
  • It is unfair to expect your puppy to go right through the night when it is very young.
  • Sleeping the puppy in a crate or puppy pen can help with house training but you should let it out in the garden to relieve itself during the night.

How to teach your puppy to toilet out on a walk

Many owners appear disappointed that their young puppy will not toilet when out on a walk, yet relieves itself the second it gets back home. This is because the puppy has been taught to toilet only at home (hopefully in its garden), and being creatures of habit, they often wait until they have returned home before evacuating their bladder and/ or bowels.

To break this habit, you will have to get up very early one morning (when you have plenty of time), and get your puppy out on a walk before it has had its morning wee. You should not bring it home until it has been forced to go out of desperation. If however, you are unsuccessful, and your puppy has not toileted, then take it immediately into the garden on your return, or you risk it relieving itself indoors. Need more help? Follow these additional puppy training tips (e.g. socialisation techniques to prevent behavioural problems) or visit the Puppy Socialisation Plan website.

Basic puppy training tips

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Train Your Puppy to Stop Biting & Nipping

Teach your puppy that teeth and skin just don't mix.
It's normal and even cute when your puppy nibbles and even lunges at your hand. Since your puppy has been
exposed to only other puppies in the litter who naturally play with mouthing and biting, it would make perfect sense why he would assume that playing with you wouldn't be different. But as they grow and their bodies become stronger, what was once cute nibbling eventually turns into uncomfortable or even dangerous rough playing bites.
Your dog has to learn that he should take treats gently from your hand and also that any game involving humans don't get toothy. But we're lucky because dogs already know this.
Watch a little puppy play with his little mates when he's still with his mom: if one puppy gets a little bit bity, the one that's been bitten will go "Ouch!".  And the game will stop completely. So puppies learn very early that when teeth come out, play finishes. So we need to teach them that it's exactly the same thing with humans.

How to stop puppy biting: training tips

First of all take a treat, hold it in your hand and wrap your fingers around it and no matter how much your dog tries to get at it, bite your hand or paw at your hand you mustn't let him have it. What you have to wait for is the minute that his nose comes away from your hand. That's what you're rewarding him for. He needs to know that he's never ever going to get a treat by biting your hand.
The only way he's going to get it is to stop doing it and back away from the hand a bit. That way he knows that biting and grabbing a hand is never going to get him a treat. And it's also a very good way to give a treat to a dog that you've never met before. Wrap the treat in your hand and then open your fingers gently and let the dog have it.
Since biting is an unacceptable type of play with you, it's important to teach your dog how to play with toys instead of your hand. Playing is a healthy natural activity that helps build a bond between you and your puppy. Before teaching your puppy not to bite it's important to teach him to decrease bite pressure.
When you're playing with toys it's the same thing: his teeth mustn't ever touch your hand. If they do you say "Ouch!", kind of the same way his little mates would, and turn away from him. So if you feel his teeth on your hand at all you let him know with a little "Ouh!", turn away and let the game stops for a few seconds. Make sure to speak up every time he bites too hard so that your puppy can learn your threshold for what is acceptable and what isn't. Then go back and play again but he has to remember not to use his teeth and to be more careful next time.
What's really important is that everybody in the family practices this, not just you. Anyone who plays with the dog has to teach him that teeth and skin don't mix !
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Collar & Lead Training Your Puppy: Tips & Techniques

Lead training your puppy takes time and patience for both you and your puppy so do your best to avoid scolding them. It's not fair to correct puppies for something they don't understand.
The secret to getting a collar is to buy one that fits your puppy now, so just choose a small lightweight one that he will hardly feel. Don't get one he's going to grow into eventually, because that's just going to be too big, heavy and intimidating.
You can buy one with clips on it to start with, just because it's going to be a lot easier to introduce it to him. You can just put it on and clip it together, rather than fiddling with buckles which can be scary when he's wearing a collar for the first time.

Introducing the collar: think positive rewards!

The first thing is to put on the collar and immediately after give him a treat so that he realises that the collar means good stuff. Don't put the collar on then take it off and give him a treat, otherwise all you're rewarding him for is having the collar off. You put it on nice and quietly and this is where you'll find the real advantage of the clips because you don't have to mess around with the buckles and the minute the clip's on… he gets a treat!
Then you can build up the length of time that he's wearing the collar for, until he's wearing it for longer and longer periods of time. But just leave it off when he's in the house, just in case he gets caught up on things (e.g.furniture) which can also cause him to panic and get hurt. However he'll have to wear it when he's out and about with his ID details on, like a grown up dog !

Introducing the lead: training tips

Once your puppy is happy wearing the collar you can introduce the lead and just start off in the house, don't try to go straight away out and about. You should think about the lead as a safety device so that he doesn't run off anywhere. Not something that you pull him around by. You want a dog that doesn't pull on the lead, so you don't start by pulling first. 
First of all, clip on the lead and give him a treat while you put it on if need be. The minute the lead is on, just use the treats (instead of pulling on the lead) to lure him beside you so that he gets used to walking with the lead and with the collar attached.
As well as using treats you can also make good use of toys - especially if your dog has a favourite one - to do exactly the same thing: walk around the house with the lead on and lure him with the toy. That way your puppy will build a positive connection with wearing the collar and lead without making any fuss whatsoever.
The most important thing is to never pull on the lead. If it is ever tight just lure him beside you with a treat or a toy while walking. All you're doing is getting him to moving around beside you with the lead and collar on. Remember to keep your hand down (the one holding the treat or toy) so your puppy doesn't get the habit of jumping up at you. That helps your puppy learn that he can move around with a collar and lead on and that the lead is never something that he's going to pull on.
If you feel that your puppy is getting stressed when walking with a lead outside try putting treats along the route you'll be taking to turn this into a rewarding game: good times are ahead. That way he learns to focus on what's ahead of him with curiosity and not fear.
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General advice about caring for your new puppy or dog

As a new puppy or dog owner, you will be aware of the responsibilities that come with dog owning and caring for
your dog. However, you will also benefit from the incredibly rewarding and pleasurable experience of dog ownership.

In time, with the correct training and care, your puppy or dog will hopefully become a well-adjusted adult who is a pleasure to own and a credit to you and the dog society at large.

This section includes information for when you first bring your puppy or dog home and provides support and tips on socialisation environment, feeding, walking and much more.

Collecting your new puppy from the breeder

Remember to take:
  • comfortable dog carrier.
  • cosy blanket.
  • water and food for longer journeys.
When you collect your new puppy it will probably be nervous being taken away from its litter and environment for the first time. Here are some tips on how to make your new puppy as relaxed as possible:
  • Try to minimise exposure to loud noises.
  • Settle your puppy in a carrier.
  • Don't let children or adults handle the puppy too much if it's nervous.
  • Keep your puppy well ventilated.
  • If the puppy shows signs of distress sit quietly and comfort it.
  • Make sure you give your puppy comfort breaks and take spare bedding - puppies are inclined to wee when nervous or excited!
  • Ensure you follow socialisation guidance from the breeder and continue this training for at least a further eight weeks.  Use the Puppy Socialisation Plan for guidance through this period.
Finally, remember to buy your dog identification tag, more information about the Control of Dogs Order 1992 is available here.

Check It Chip It - Everything you need to know about compulsory microchipping

Check It Chip It is a one-stop website for everything you need to know about compulsory microchipping, from checking a microchip to advice, tips and downloads for breeders, vets, dog owners and more to ensure all dog owners and breeds are complying with the law.

Microchipping with Petlog

The Kennel Club believes that microchipping makes a clear link between a dog and its owner. More than 100,000 dogs are lost or stolen each year, with many having to be kept in kennels before being re-homed. Having a microchip means they can be reunited quickly with their owners, reducing the stress for dog and owner alike.
By law, from 2016 all dogs must be microchipped and contact details MUST be kept up to date. 
Having your puppies implanted with a Petlog microchip means that they will be registered on the UK's largest lost and found database for microchipped pets. Registration on the Petlog database provides your puppies and their owners many benefits including:
  • A 24 hour/7 day a week, 365 days a year dedicated UK based lost and found line.
  • Petlog Premium service giving the new owners additional benefits including a mobile app and lost pet alerts.
  • Registration for life for every owner.
  • Database managed by the Kennel Club.
  • Petlog works with 12 of the 15 leading microchip suppliers.
  • Petlog is ISO 9001 and 27001 complaint - ensuring all data is handled and stored to the highest most stringent standards.
Here's some additional advice from our partners in pet nutrition - Eukanuba

Early development

Your puppy is likely to be 8 weeks old when you first meet him. With the help of his mother and breeder, he will already have taken some important steps to becoming a well-balanced and socialised dog.
  • The neonatal period (Birth-2 weeks old)
In the first days of his life, your puppy relied entirely on his mother to feed him and keep him warm. However, your breeder will have handled him gently, introducing him to human contact.
  • The transitional period (2-3 weeks old)
The sensory capabilities and motor skills develop quickly as physical changes enable your puppy to see, smell, hear, taste and touch his new world for the first time. By the end of this period he will have learned to walk. Your breeder will have ensured the secured living area was large enough to remove himself from the sleeping area to urinate and defecate.
  • The awareness period (3-4 weeks)
He will have started to learn how to eat without suckling and it is possible that his mother may have started to discourage feeding from her. At this sensitive time, your breeder may have started to introduce him to solid feeding.
  • Initial socialization (4-8 weeks)
The greater the variety of positive experiences your puppy has before the age of 8 weeks old, the more prepared he will be to cope with the day-to-day experiences in life. Your breeder knows this and will have handled him frequently. To prepare him for life without his mother, your puppy will have been weaned from suckling her to eating solid food and he will now be self-sufficient in feeding and drinking.

New Owner - Puppy Socialisation (8-16 weeks)

Your breeder should pass to you an information sheet on all the socialisation activities they have completed with your puppy and advice on the actions you need to continue with. The Kennel Club and the Dogs Trust has produce an online plan to help you complete comprehensive socialisation which will be the foundation of your puppy's future wellbeing: www.thepuppyplan.com
Sleeping and eating arrangements
Create designated sleeping and eating to help him acclimatize to his new home. Always ensure he has fresh water available.
Choose wisely where your new puppy will sleep. It is important that he can see family life and is not in a draft with suitable dog bedding to sleep in. You must also choose a place for him to eat with enough room for food. Always ensure fresh water is available for him.
Choosing a name for your puppy
A short, two-syllable name will avoid confusion with single-syllable commands.
  • Names should be short. A two-syllable name is best because it is brief and will not be confused with one-syllable commands such as "no" or "sit".
  • Be consistent. All family members should use the same name for the puppy
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